By Mandy Cloninger
As we made the cross-country drive home and our epic wild west adventure was coming to an end, my friend Jenni and I were talking about her favorite moments from the trip. Jenni joined Luna and I in Oregon at Crater Lake and then helped to drive half-way across the country from Oregon to Minneapolis – talk about an amazing friend! Jenni shared a phrase that for me really helps define our whole trip. She said there was a sense of “sustained wonder” in our travels!




With Jenni, we traveled across six states: Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Montana, North Dakota and Minnesota on our return home. The terrain was vastly different day to day: national forest, rivers, hills, creeks, lakes, mountains, flats, badlands. We wondered at the changing landscape. We were in awe at the sights. We tried to capture often what a camera cannot, that inexplicable feeling you get when you are confronted with boundless beauty.
We sleep around!
Luna and I traveled for 62 days together! We journeyed through 26 states and logged 10,710 miles. We slept around and stayed in one cabin (Hummingbird Cabin, TN), one national park (Crater Lake), two hotels (The Gordon in Eugene & The Huckleberry Lodge at Mount Hood), two state parks (Valley of the Rogue & Honeyman), three family campgrounds and 12 KoAs (Kampgrounds of America).
When looking back on all the places, attractions, hikes and boundless beauty we experienced, it’s difficult to call out just a few favorites! I have failed miserably trying to share this with my friends in person as they humor me and let me chatter.
I’ve pushed myself to capture a few of our favorite places, hikes and attractions and as a fan of lists, I couldn’t help but include a journal of lists to share and capture in our memory.
Our favorite places we slept were Honeyman State Park, Crater Lake National Park, the Hummingbird Cabin and Valley of the Rogue State Park earns an honorable mention.
#1 Campsite: Honeyman State Park and #2 Favorite Hike: Sand Dunes
Jesse M. Honeyman State Park was a late addition and a recommendation from a fellow camper while we were staying at the Valley of the Rogue State Park. As we transitioned from the Rogue River Valley in southern Oregon over to the Pacific Coast, we were so enjoying our time there that I adjusted our reservations and was able to squeeze in four weeknights at Honeyman. Honeyman had Whoooohooo Hill, an awesome hill on one of the campsite loops that Luna and I rode our bike up and down countless times screaming, “Whoohoo!”
Honeyman also was adjacent to the sand dunes, so we walked straight out to hike the dunes (which was no easy feat), and in fact, earned us the distinction of “brave souls” by our sand dune buggy tour guide as he shared how challenging it is to hike on dunes that are constantly moving. The sand dunes were so fascinating, how they shifted right before your eyes with the wind. Every step I hiked, I’d sink deeper and ended up in a caveman-type uphill climb on all fours while Luna ran ahead like she was skating on top of the dunes.

On our dune buggy tour, we learned how in winter the dunes are underneath snow, and that the rich nutrients from the snow melting create dense tree islands that grow in the sand. The islands are filled with wildlife that you rarely see because they are so thick and dense with vegetation that they provide all the wildlife need. Beyond the sand dunes was the Pacific Coast, so not only did Honeyman boast the dunes and the coast, this stop also had a lake with a sand dune beach. We rented a peddle-boat, and Luna caught a salamander on the beach as well. All of this combined to make it our favorite campsite on the whole trip – an unexpected last-minute addition to our journey that had countless moments filled with beauty, wonder and “whoohoos.”

#2 Campsite: Crater Lake & #1 Hike: Cleetwood Cove Trail
Crater Lake was such an experience and earns top billing for places we slept and hiked! We camped at this national park that intersects with the Pacific Coast Trail for four nights (I booked it back in April), and while the site had no frills, no hookups, and only four showers (for all the campers and PCT hikers,) it still made the top three. We really got to experience the depth, beauty and natural wonder of Crater Lake because we stayed at the park. We learned so much on our trolley tour and in Luna’s junior ranger packet that we became Crater Lake encyclopedias. As we visit other natural, geological sites that expose different periods, we will look for the white, Mazama ash, that traveled the world 7,000 years ago. It took three days for her to erupt and just a few hours for the crater to be formed when all those rocks finally came crashing down and created the deep crater. Another 200-300 years passed, and rainwater and snow filled the pristine lake. Trout and salmon were imported, and the four boats on Crater Lake were flown in by helicopter and dropped into the lake.
The only way down to the base of the lake is Cleetwood Cove Trail, a magnificent hike and my personal favorite, that we flew downhill. We also climbed the 700 ft in elevation back out with Luna chasing a little boy who went faster than her! The day we hiked Cleetwood Cove, it rained all morning, so we went down to the Visitor Center and shopped. We then had a picnic in our SUV as we waited for the rain to clear at the trailhead. We started the hike in our jackets, wet and cold with rain, but by the time we made it to the base of the lake, the sun was shining, and we slipped into our swimsuits.

I’ve never seen so many shades of blue. All the different blues are caused by the changes in depth of the lake, at its deepest it is 1,943 feet (592 meters), and the views and the blues are different every single day! It was spectacular. I jumped while Luna eased herself into the lake. We cheered as young men cliff jumped into the lake while both of us wished aloud we could do it too. It might be my only regret of the trip that we didn’t jump! But I couldn’t reconcile in my head how to jump with Luna or without her, I would need another responsible adult to make sure we were both ok on the cliff and getting out of the water. So, we cheered for others and now have a reason to return!
Top 3 Hike: Silver Falls State Park, Trail of Waterfalls
One of my other favorite hikes boasted a trail of waterfalls at Silver Falls State Park. The boundless beauty and the soundscape were remarkable as we hiked to the top and behind the falls. The views were breath-taking and ethereal. Luna and I enjoyed how the mist of the falls kissed our faces. When Luna’s energy sapped after about four miles, I had to hike the return with her on my shoulders and back. It was a workout worth remembering for the serenity of the falls, and I couldn’t help thinking I won’t be able to carry her much longer.




#3 Place We Slept: Hummingbird Cabin
Near the end of our journey, we stayed in a beautiful cabin in Tennessee with the Indian Creek beside us that Luna nicknamed the hummingbird cabin. The babble and rush of the creek outside became the kind of nature-filled noise we pay money for to help us sleep! It was so relaxing and beautiful with the Smoky Mountains around us, and the porch became an oasis as we transitioned back to the southeast. It was energizing stretching out after just two nights outside our little 21.5-foot camper. We were visited by wild turkeys, fed ducks, and watched beautiful hummingbirds sipping sugar water from the feeders, and thoroughly enjoyed the creek view and the rest before we trekked the final two-day drive home.



Honorable Mention Top Campsites: Valley of the Rogue State Park
Valley of the Rogue State Park earns an honorable mention because it was our first stop in Oregon, and its location next to the Rogue River offered tons of awesome hiking and biking trails. Luna became well-known as a speedster on her bicycle, and I offered tandem bike rides for the youngsters too as we cruised the river and our campsite loop every day. We enjoyed decorating her bike for the fourth of July parade with the rangers and dancing at a weekend concert. We made campsite friends who invited us to share in smores and glow sticks. I even enjoyed a night on the town at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, with sushi, a cocktail, a Caribbean concert and the delightful musical, Once on this Island. After the hard miles to make it across the country, Valley of the Rogue State Park made it worth it to stay in Oregon!





Top 5 Best Hikes: Trillium Lake & Mount Hood
When the West Coast heat wave caught up to us in Central Oregon, we relocated to Mount Hood, and enjoyed a hotel and the much cooler weather. Snow skiing occurs year-round due to the glaciers, but the heat wave had an impact on local businesses who didn’t have air conditioning. The Huckleberry Inn, the brewery and restaurants we visited all had limited hours and menus due to the heat.
We hiked around Trillium Lake with the view of Mount Hood in the distance and also rented a kayak. Luna made friends everywhere we went, and in the middle of the lake exclaimed, “I want some!” when she saw a fellow kayaker enjoying some Cool Ranch Doritos. In the middle of the lake, a new friend obliged and passed off the bag to Luna, and even snapped our picture together!

Luna was so brave riding the ski lift to the top of Mount Hood. We enjoyed a snowball fight, played in the snow and watched the snowboarders and skiers. We even did an experiment where we transported snow in her Peppa the Pig baseball hat down the ski lift as Luna shared with everyone’s path that we crossed, “We’ve still got snow, and it hasn’t melted!” After almost an hour of toting the snow, we put it in a water bottle to see how long it took to melt, and Luna disgustingly drank the snow water! We even found a summer snow slide run at the Snow Bowl adventure park and rode another ski lift and slid down the run half a dozen times. Luna’s daredevil side appeared as she bore down on the stick shift to go faster and outrun the others sliding down. I even had to run to catch up to her as she tried to secure her own slide and go alone!

While most of our adventures were spent in the great outdoors, and great hiking seems to be a prerequisite for most of my travels of late, one attraction Luna requested again and again to go back to: the Albany Historic Carousel. It was an enchanting morning as we picked from the more than 40 animals on the carousel to ride. We bought token after token to ride again and again. This fantastical carousel has hand-painted animals, each with a unique story.

As I’ve written about and reflected on our experiences during the last few weeks and months, I’ve revisited the pictures, I’ve shared them with Luna, and I sigh in wanderlust at when we might do this again. I remain so grateful for the time Luna and I had together on this adventure, learning more about the beautiful places in our country and ourselves.
For even more pictures, you can visit our album at: https://share.icloud.com/photos/05ffrwXRr0kCvDzTbWkhjBBTg
As you might expect, Luna wants to know when the camper gets back on the road. We’ve already booked a couple local campsites, and I’m searching the earliest reservations for next summer’s adventure.
The best hikes (in order):
- Cleetwood Cove Trail, Crater Lake (to base of the lake)
- Sand Dunes
- Silver Falls State Park (4 miles – last mile with Luna on my back/shoulders)
- Trillium Lake (kayaked too)
- Mount Hood
Where we stayed: one cabin, one national park, two hotels, two state parks, three independent campgrounds and 12 KoAs.
State Parks:
- Valley of the Rogue State Park, OR
- Jesse M. Honeyman State Park, OR
National Park:
Crater Lake
3 Campgrounds:
- Flat Creek Family Campgrounds (FL)
- Red Tail Campground
- Coyote Run RV Park
12 KoAs: We appreciated the KoAs for their consistency and availability on our journey. Most had beautiful pools, easy pull-through sites and were very family oriented, but they don’t get the top billing even though we stayed there often!
Sleeping Around (stops on our route)
- Baton Rouge, LA
- Grants, NM
- Wendover, NV
- Reno, NV
- Bandon/Port Orford, OR
- Albany/Corvallis, OR
- Redmond/Central Oregon, OR
- Three Forks, MT
- Bismarck, North Dakota
- Minneapolis Northwest, MN
- Milton, WI
- Horse Cave, KY
- Savannah South, GA
Hotels:
- The Gordon (Eugene, OR)
- Huckleberry Lodge (Mt Hood, OR)
- Cabin:
Mountain Bird/Hummingbird Cabin (TN)
20+ hikes:
- New Mexico
- El Malpais Monument
- Utah
- Park Avenue Trail (Arches)
- Oregon
- Rogue River Valley
- Ti’Lomikh Falls (eagle, capsized rafters)
- Table Rock (2 hours up, 40 mins down)
- Mill Creek Falls
- Avenue of Boulders
- Oregon Caves
- Port Orford Heads Trail (sea lions)
- Floras Lake Park
- Bullards Beach (driftwood playhouse where Luna added the finishing touches, including a rock garden)
- Sand Dunes
- Silver Falls State Park (4 miles – last mile with Luna on my back/shoulders)
- Redmond Caves
- Trillium Lake
- Mount Hood
- Vidae Falls, Crater Lake
- Sun Notch Hike, Phantom Ship, Crater Lake
- Cleetwood Cove Trail, Crater Lake (to base of the lake)
- Kentucky:
- Mammoth Cave National Park
- Tennessee:
- Rock Creek Park
- Beauty Spot
- Appalachian Trail
- Blue Hole
- Martins Creek Falls
National Monuments & Parks:
- El Malpais National Monument (NM)
- Arches National Park (UT)
- Oregon Caves National Monument & Preserve (OR)
- Crater Lake National Park (OR)
- Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota
- Mammoth Cave National Park (KY)
- Smoky Mountain National Park (TN)
Lighthouses:
- Heceta Lighthouse
- Mount Blanco (westernmost point)
Attractions:
- Fort Worth Zoo
- Oregon Shakespeare Festival
- Safari/Rescue Wildlife Park
- Hughes House
- Sand Dunes Buggy Tour
- Albany Historic Carousel
- Snow Bowl Adventure Park
- Trolley Tour, Crater Lake
- Hands On Museum
- Pretty Little Chapel
Parks:
- RiverPlay Discovery Village Playground, Eugene, OR
- Monteith Riverwalk, Albany, OR
- Waverly Lake Park, Albany, OR
- Every Child’s Dream, Winona, MN
26 states (in this order):
- Florida
- Georgia
- Alabama
- Mississippi
- Arkansas
- Louisiana
- Texas
- New Mexico
- Arizona
- Utah
- Nevada
- California
- Oregon
- Washington
- Idaho
- Montana
- North Dakota
- Minnesota
- Wisconsin
- Illinois
- Indiana
- Kentucky
- Tennessee
- Virginia
- North Carolina
- South Carolina